Post by phoc on Dec 29, 2007 14:47:24 GMT 8
Mga sirs, dis is phoc of team MAC, with your permission, just wanna share some ersop info from team Mac, originally posted from FAS. Hope these helps. Enjoy d game....Long live balasik team!
Basic Upgrades
There are a lot of upgrades available for airsoft AEGs. This is a basic guide to the parts you need to upgrade.
Steps
For an AEG rifle
1. What parts can be upgraded in your AEG? In a normal AEG many parts can be changed or upgraded. Here is a list of them and what they do.
2. Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Marui guns come with decent ones but other companies make better ones. Systema, Guarder, prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
3. Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber can be changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones in Marui guns are ok but are not as good as ones made by Prometheus and Systema.
4. Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter than their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Don't get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm (but are bad quality), Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI the best make 6.01mm from steel.
5. Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered sping with standard internals as you are likely to damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per seconed or 328 feet per second.
6. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Marui guns come with platsic guides as standard but Guarder, Systema and prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
7. Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
8. Cylinder Head. Changing this part will either silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head) or give a better air seal.
9. Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
10. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods.
11. Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quiet your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P and Systema make good ones.
12. Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema, Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at an angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
13. Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will take 7mm or 8mm bushes.
14. Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shiming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
15. Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed.
16. Selector Plate. This part rarly breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
17. Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket versions.
18. Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
19. Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
20. Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentialy keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed better. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
21. Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put a hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will stip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 High Speed is also good.
22. Battery. The higher the voltage, the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot). Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection.
For a bolt action rifle
1. Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quite good.
2. Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
3. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
4. Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
5. Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
6. Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
7. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
8. Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
9. Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to thingy your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
10. Trigger seat. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger seat. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger seat. It keeps the gun thingyed. If it breaks your gun will not thingy.
11. Piston seat. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger seat. Has a lot less strain put on it than the trigger seat.
12. Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also upgrade this when increasing the muzzle velocity.
13. Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.
Upgrading a stock Marui AEG. The authors take no responsibilty for any damage to you gun caused by following these instructions. You do so at your own risk!
Required Parts:
1. 328 fps - M100 or SP85-SP90 spring, steel bushings (any 6mm will do) and Systema shims.
2. 400 fps - Many people say you don't need new gears but I think you do. M120 spring, steel bushings, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide and Guarder steel gears.
3. 450 fps - G&P piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Guarder steel gears, steel bushings, G&P piston head.
4. 500 fps - You essentialy have a sniper rifle. You will want a longer barrel (509mm) and something to house it, Fire Fly hop up bucking hard, half tooth piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Prometheus torque up helical gears, G&P piston head, Systema Magnum motor, Area 1000 Type 0 teflon cylinder, Guarder cylinder head, Guarder air nozzle, 7mm mech box case, 7mm bushing.
5. I do not recommend you go any to a higher velocity. You should also opt for 9.6v or 10.8v battery.
Opening a Marui M-series gun.The M-series refers to the M16 A1, M16VN, M16A2, R-16, M4 RIS and the M4.)
1. Remove the magazine. Fire your gun 3 times in Semi-Auto upside down to ensure there are no BBs in the chamber. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the stock. If it is a full stock just remove the 2 screws on the butt plate and it should come off right away. If it is a folding stock you need to remove the sliding part. To do this pull down on the lever and slide it off. Then remove the hex screw on the bottom of the plate and take the cap off with some pliers (this will require some force). Unscrew the screw on the inside with a long philips head screw driver.
3. Remove the back pin on the reciever and pull the reciever apart (this will require force). Don't break the taps. Now remove the front pin and pull everything apart. Apply a small amount of grease to the tabs for easier opening.
4. Remove the magazine release by unscrewing it and pushing it through. Reassemble the magazine release out side of the gun to aviod losing any parts.
5. Pull out the pin in the middle of the receiver.
6. Remove the plate on the bottom of the pistol grip by unscrewing two small screws.
7. Slowly lift it off.
8. If there is a metal disc on the motor continue with the next step. If not, remove the 2 wires connecting the motor to the gun and simply yank it out with pliers. If you couldn't find the metal disc on top it will be on the motor because it is a magnet. Put the disc on the motor plate.
9. Remove the 3 small screws on the base. This is really difficult to do so just keep trying.
10. Pull out your gear box and, if you want to, put it all back together.
How to change the barrel, hop up rubber or hop up unit.
1. Split the receiver by removing the back pin then pulling it apart.
2. Remove the front pin and separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver.
3. Pull out the barrel and hop up unit.
4. You will find a small spring on the hop up unit. If you don't, look around that area and shake it until you find it.
5. Remove the plate attached to the hop up unit by pulling it off. Pull out the barrel and hop up rubber.
6. Now you can change any of the parts you want.
How to open a Version 2 gear box and upgrade your Marui gun to about 320 fps.
1. What you will need:
ESystema or other airsoft brand shims.
E6mm bushes.
EA spring rated for 320 fps. A Systema m100, Prometheus m100, Guarder SP90 should be ok.
EAirsoft grease (not car grease!). Lithium grease or G&P grease.
EPhilips head screw driver set
ETorx screw driver set
2. Process
1. Remove the V2 gearbox from your gun.
2. Ii there is a wire guide on the front of your gearbox directing the wires to the front, remove it with a screw driver.
3. Remove all the torque and hex screws from the shell.
4. Put a screw driver in the back of the gearbox through the spring guide and put pressure on it whilst you pull open the case.
5. If, when you open the shell the spring guide jumps out at you, remove the spring and spring guide as well as the piston.
6. Remove the gears and the anti-reversal latch. It doesn't matter if anything falls off the like bushes and shims, just not the teeth! (That would only happen if they were broken).
7. Remove the stock bushes and put your new ones in. Make sure they're a tight fit.
8. Shim the gears. Make sure the gears are correctly aligned and rotate well but don't move when you close the case. Put your gears and the anti-reversal latch back in place.
9. Remove your piston, spring and piston head.
10. Remove the piston head by unscrewing it with a rag and pliers.
11. Put your new spring in and re-attach the piston head.
12. Reinstall everything. Shut the gearbox . This will require a bit of effort but you'll get there eventualy. Put it in your gun and enjoy!
Tips
EGet all the reinforcement parts you need for a certain power spring. It will save you money eventually because you won't have a bunch of parts break from too much stress.
EGet a replacement upgrade hop up first. It will increase the consistency of your shots. A tightbore barrel should be second to improve accuracy. Increasing FPS before either of these steps will actually hurt the gun's performance. After that, higher FPS can give you more range and of course power.
Warnings
EMake sure you take apart the gearbox in a place where you will not lose any parts. You might want to take pictures at the different stages so you can remember how it goes back together.
SPRINGS: (Approx. Settled Spring FPS on .20gBB)
Stock Gun (brand new gun) = 270-290 FPS
CQB Gun: M100 / SP100 / PDI120% = 330-350 FPS << FAP CQB Standard
Standard Field Gun: M120 / SP120 / PDI170% = 390-410 FPS [.20gBB stable] << COMMON UPGRADE
Std High Field Gun 1: M130 / SP130 / PDI190% / PDI210% = 440-460 FPS [.20gBBmin .23gBB stable]
Std High Field Gun 2: M140 / SP140 / PDI240% = 470-490 FPS [.23gBBmin .25gBB stable]
Sniper Field Gun 1: M150 / SP150 / PDI270% = 510-530FPS [.28gBB stable] << FAP Sniper Standard
Sniper Field Gun 2: M160 / SP160 = 550-580FPS [.30g/.36gBB sweet-stable] << rat buster
Sniper Field Gun 3: M170 / SP170 = 580-600+ FPS [.36g/.43gBB sweet-stable] << cat buster
Spring Power Chart filairsoft.com/airsoft103.htm
BB goes wild = BB too light -- BB range seems near = BB too heavy
GEARS: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF)
Infinite=(1) Ultra=(2) SuperTorqueUp=(3) TorqueUp=(4) StockRatio=(5) FastGear=(6)
>> Numbers indicate "car-gear-shift". *Small batts (non Sub-C) DOWNSHIFT to next LOWER gear. <<
Common Gear-to-Spring Setup for Big Batt (engine) (Sub-C):
Fast Gears (6) - UP TO M100 / SP100 / PDI120%
Stock Gears (5) can 'safely' handle up to M130, SP130, PDI190% <<<< on 9.6v 1700mAh(min)
Torque Up Gears (4) - M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-210% or LOWER
Torque Up Gears OR Super Torque Up (4/3) - M140 / SP140 / PDI240%
Ultra Torque Up Gears (2) - M150 / SP150 / PDI270%
Ultra or Infinite Gears (2/1) - M160 / SP160 << Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
Infinite Torque Up Gears (1) - M170 / SP170 << Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
*Some Gear set won't fit on some reinforced Gearbox-CHECK first before you get one.
*No known machining on stock ver.3 GearBox to fit any gear set.
*AVOID using Bearing Bushings on M120 above. only for soft springs
M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-PDI210% on STOCK Gears will last Approx. 5-10 months (depends on use)
Stock Gears - Low Cost, nice ROF. will not last long. (cast alloy)
Flat Gears - Noisier, Cheaper. More durable (steel)
Helical Gears - Silent. Expensive. shimming sensitive (steel) <<Avoid pairing w/ Bearing Bushings
BATTERY: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF and Rounds of fire)
Voltage = Rate of Fire (ROF) mAh = BB-Rounds (Power/Stamina)
BIG INTERNAL Standard Battery Size [Ni-CAD]:
M4A1 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) V-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
M4A1 Patriot - 12v 1700mah (Fat-long AA) Circular config
G36C - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA)
M733 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) Chako-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
AK 47/Spetz - 10.4 2400mAh (Sub-C) 12v(max)
M16A1/A2/VN/SR16 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) 13.2v(max)
CAR15 - 8.4v 600mAh (Small) 1500mAh (max) (Fat AA) 2-separates
P90 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) J-Type
G3A3,G3SG1,MP5A4,MP5SD5 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) Straight
MP5SD6 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) V-type
MP5A5 - 9.6v 1100mAh (Slim) Chako-Type << (?)
Steyr AUG - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) Box-Type
PSG-1 10.8v 1500mAh (Fat AA) 13.2v(max)
M16 Dummy/Ready MAG - 9pcs 10.8v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA)
AN/PEQ 2 Dummy Laser Box - 9.6v 1700mAh (w/laser) 12v 1700mAh(max)
Approx. Battery-to-Rounds Capacity: [NiCd] (on M120 Stock Gears, EG1000)
9.6v 600mAh = <500 rounds (Small) Sanyo KR600AE 9.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1100mAh = 1,000 rounds (Slim) Sanyo KR1100AAU 19mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1500mAh = 1,400 rounds (Fat AA) Sanyo KR1500AUL 16mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1700mAh = 1,800 rounds (Fat-long AA) Sanyo KR1700AU 17mOhm Int. Resistance
9.6v 1900mAh = 2,400 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo N-1900SCR 4mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2000mAh = 2,600 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo KR-CH 6.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2400mAh = 3,100 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo CP-2400SCR 4.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 3000mAh = 3,800 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo HR-SCU [Ni-MH] 5.3mOhm Internal Resistance
*can someone confirm this rounds guesstimation--
BEST BUY: 9.6v 1700mAh(small-type) 9.6v 2400mAh(large-type)
Approx. CHARGING Time on 1000mAh Output Charger:
600mAh = 36mins(min) 42mins(std) 48mins(max)
1100mAh = 1hr 6mins(min) 1hr 19mins(std) 1hr 30mins(max)
1500mAh = 1hr 20mins(min) 1hr 48mins(std) 2hrs 7mins(max)
1700mAh = 1hr 42mins(min) 2hrs(standard) 2hrs 24mins(max)
1900mAh = 1hr 53mins(min) 2hrs 18mins(std) 2hrs 43mins(max)
2000mAh = 2hours(minimum) 2hrs 24mins(std) 2hrs 48mins(max)
2400mAh = 2hrs 23mins(min) 2hrs 54mins(std) 3hrs24mins(max)
3000mAh = 3hours(min) 3hrs 37mins(std) 4hrs 13mins(max)
*Charger should be 1 to 3 volts higher voltage than total battery voltage
Go over to digibattery.com/ for more battery-charging-time calculations
DISCHARGING: Number of batteries in a Pack = Max discharge volts.
(ex. 9.6v = 8cells in a pack = 8.0v is the maximum discharged voltage)
PISTON: Depends on your spring and trigger abuse.
M140 Above = Aluminum Piston (for ratatat players)
. Choice1: ICS Aluminum Piston
. Choice2: Systema Aluminum Piston
*if compatible, get the half-tooth to lessen the weight
M140 Below = Polycarbonate Piston
. Choice1: Guarder Polycarb Piston (blue)
. Choice2: Tokyo Marui Stock Piston (white) <-- polycarbonate too
. Choice3: Systema Polycarb Piston (black) << brittle bad choice
AVOID the RED PISTON-Systema Polycarb (defective) there's a newer version
*have'nt tried the TGS(blue) nor the TOP yet, but it looks promising <-- pls review
*some use polycarbs on m140 above but with trigger care
CYLINDER: (cylinderVolume-to-barrel-ratio) 2 is to 1 (standard)
Marui Stock Cylinders:
1. Closed Cylinder = 27.1cc 450mm(min) 580mm(max) barrel length
2. XM Cylinder = "4/5 hole" = 364mm(min) 460mm(max) barrel length
3. M4 Cylinder = "3/4 hole" aka Type-2 17cc - 229mm(min) 430mm(max) barrel length
4. MP5K Cylinder = "mid hole" 9cc 110mm(min) 170mm(max) barrel length
Systema NB Standard and BoreUp Parts:
1. Type-0 Cylinder (closed) fits M16-A1,VN,A2,G3-A4,SG1,SIG550,AUG
2. Type-1 Cylinder (tip hole) for XM177, M4, AK47, AK47S, SIG551
3. Type-2 Cylinder (XM hole) for MP5-A4,A5,SD5,SD6, MC51,SIG552
4. Type-3 Cylinder (M4 "3/4" hole) for MP5 PDW
5. Type-4 Cylinder (MP5K mid hole) for MP5K
*BoreUp Closed 29.4cc = 500mm(min) 600mm(max) barrel length
KM Cylinder Parts:
*Intercept Cylinder 59 barrel length from 450mm to 590mm (Type 0)
*Intercept Cylinder 45 barrel length from 250mm to 450mm (Type 2)
*Intercept Cylinder 25 barrel length from 100mm to 250mm (Mid-hole)
*To avoid confusion, don't mix brand model names, just model equivalence
*TM M733 by stock is closed cylinder (Type 0) -over ratio
RATIO Guide: Standard-Efficient Ratio is 1.5 is to 1
2-2.5 : 1 for springs up to M130 --- 2.5-3.0 : 1 for strong springs M140 -> UP
<needs further research>
BARREL: (inner barrel length)
650mm/25.59in PSG-1 (extended)
595mm/23.42in APS2 OR
589mm/23.18in PSG-1
550mm/21.65in M16A1/VN/A2,AUG (extended)
534mm/21.02in Sig550
509mm/20.03in M16A1/VN/A2,AUG
472mm/18.58in Famas SV/F1
469mm/18.46in G3-A3/A4,SG1
455mm/17.91in AK47,AK47s
444mm/17.48in M60
407mm/16.02in M4A1 M653E2 (extended)
395mm/15.55in APS2 SV
369mm/14.52in HK51
363mm/14.29in M4A1,RIS,SR-16,XM177ED,Sig551
300mm/11.81in M1A1,AKBetaSpetz, M733
285mm/11.22in MC51
247mm/9.72in Car15,P90,G36C, SIG552
245mm/9.64in UZI - 400mm/15.74in (extended)
229mm/9.01in MP5A5/A4/SD5/SD6
170mm/6.69in MP5K-PDW (extended)
141mm/5.55in MP5K-PDW
110mm/4.33in MP5K
MOTORS:
TM EG560 (famas)
TM EG700 (need more spec info)
TM EG1000 27,552rpm 1,407.00G.cm Torque
Systema "Genuine" 29,825rpm 1,6999.83G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Speed" 37,400rpm 1,915.99G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Torque" 32,302rpm 1,932.49G.cm Torque
Systema "Super Hi-Torque" 34,787rpm 1,998.47G.cm Torque
Eagle Force Hummer 1100 (high-speed)
Eagle Force Hummer 1300 (super-high-speed)
GAS: (for gas guns/pistols)
Freon12/Flon12 (94psi) = HFC134a (97psi) a.k.a. Green Gas
Freon22/Flon22 (140psi) a.k.a. TOP Gas, Taiwanese Green Gas,Omega Gas,ToyJack Gas
RED Gas = a bit higher pressure (?) than TOP Gas
BLACK Gas = highest pressure for airsoft <carbon<myth?
*pressures on 30C / 86F manila temp. / gas expansion speed differs from each type of gas[/size]
Basic Upgrades
There are a lot of upgrades available for airsoft AEGs. This is a basic guide to the parts you need to upgrade.
Steps
For an AEG rifle
1. What parts can be upgraded in your AEG? In a normal AEG many parts can be changed or upgraded. Here is a list of them and what they do.
2. Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Marui guns come with decent ones but other companies make better ones. Systema, Guarder, prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
3. Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber can be changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones in Marui guns are ok but are not as good as ones made by Prometheus and Systema.
4. Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter than their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Don't get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm (but are bad quality), Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI the best make 6.01mm from steel.
5. Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered sping with standard internals as you are likely to damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per seconed or 328 feet per second.
6. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Marui guns come with platsic guides as standard but Guarder, Systema and prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
7. Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
8. Cylinder Head. Changing this part will either silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head) or give a better air seal.
9. Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
10. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods.
11. Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quiet your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P and Systema make good ones.
12. Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema, Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at an angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
13. Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will take 7mm or 8mm bushes.
14. Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shiming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
15. Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed.
16. Selector Plate. This part rarly breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
17. Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket versions.
18. Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
19. Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
20. Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentialy keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed better. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
21. Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put a hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will stip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 High Speed is also good.
22. Battery. The higher the voltage, the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot). Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection.
For a bolt action rifle
1. Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quite good.
2. Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
3. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
4. Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
5. Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
6. Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
7. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
8. Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
9. Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to thingy your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
10. Trigger seat. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger seat. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger seat. It keeps the gun thingyed. If it breaks your gun will not thingy.
11. Piston seat. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger seat. Has a lot less strain put on it than the trigger seat.
12. Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also upgrade this when increasing the muzzle velocity.
13. Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.
Upgrading a stock Marui AEG. The authors take no responsibilty for any damage to you gun caused by following these instructions. You do so at your own risk!
Required Parts:
1. 328 fps - M100 or SP85-SP90 spring, steel bushings (any 6mm will do) and Systema shims.
2. 400 fps - Many people say you don't need new gears but I think you do. M120 spring, steel bushings, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide and Guarder steel gears.
3. 450 fps - G&P piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Guarder steel gears, steel bushings, G&P piston head.
4. 500 fps - You essentialy have a sniper rifle. You will want a longer barrel (509mm) and something to house it, Fire Fly hop up bucking hard, half tooth piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Prometheus torque up helical gears, G&P piston head, Systema Magnum motor, Area 1000 Type 0 teflon cylinder, Guarder cylinder head, Guarder air nozzle, 7mm mech box case, 7mm bushing.
5. I do not recommend you go any to a higher velocity. You should also opt for 9.6v or 10.8v battery.
Opening a Marui M-series gun.The M-series refers to the M16 A1, M16VN, M16A2, R-16, M4 RIS and the M4.)
1. Remove the magazine. Fire your gun 3 times in Semi-Auto upside down to ensure there are no BBs in the chamber. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the stock. If it is a full stock just remove the 2 screws on the butt plate and it should come off right away. If it is a folding stock you need to remove the sliding part. To do this pull down on the lever and slide it off. Then remove the hex screw on the bottom of the plate and take the cap off with some pliers (this will require some force). Unscrew the screw on the inside with a long philips head screw driver.
3. Remove the back pin on the reciever and pull the reciever apart (this will require force). Don't break the taps. Now remove the front pin and pull everything apart. Apply a small amount of grease to the tabs for easier opening.
4. Remove the magazine release by unscrewing it and pushing it through. Reassemble the magazine release out side of the gun to aviod losing any parts.
5. Pull out the pin in the middle of the receiver.
6. Remove the plate on the bottom of the pistol grip by unscrewing two small screws.
7. Slowly lift it off.
8. If there is a metal disc on the motor continue with the next step. If not, remove the 2 wires connecting the motor to the gun and simply yank it out with pliers. If you couldn't find the metal disc on top it will be on the motor because it is a magnet. Put the disc on the motor plate.
9. Remove the 3 small screws on the base. This is really difficult to do so just keep trying.
10. Pull out your gear box and, if you want to, put it all back together.
How to change the barrel, hop up rubber or hop up unit.
1. Split the receiver by removing the back pin then pulling it apart.
2. Remove the front pin and separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver.
3. Pull out the barrel and hop up unit.
4. You will find a small spring on the hop up unit. If you don't, look around that area and shake it until you find it.
5. Remove the plate attached to the hop up unit by pulling it off. Pull out the barrel and hop up rubber.
6. Now you can change any of the parts you want.
How to open a Version 2 gear box and upgrade your Marui gun to about 320 fps.
1. What you will need:
ESystema or other airsoft brand shims.
E6mm bushes.
EA spring rated for 320 fps. A Systema m100, Prometheus m100, Guarder SP90 should be ok.
EAirsoft grease (not car grease!). Lithium grease or G&P grease.
EPhilips head screw driver set
ETorx screw driver set
2. Process
1. Remove the V2 gearbox from your gun.
2. Ii there is a wire guide on the front of your gearbox directing the wires to the front, remove it with a screw driver.
3. Remove all the torque and hex screws from the shell.
4. Put a screw driver in the back of the gearbox through the spring guide and put pressure on it whilst you pull open the case.
5. If, when you open the shell the spring guide jumps out at you, remove the spring and spring guide as well as the piston.
6. Remove the gears and the anti-reversal latch. It doesn't matter if anything falls off the like bushes and shims, just not the teeth! (That would only happen if they were broken).
7. Remove the stock bushes and put your new ones in. Make sure they're a tight fit.
8. Shim the gears. Make sure the gears are correctly aligned and rotate well but don't move when you close the case. Put your gears and the anti-reversal latch back in place.
9. Remove your piston, spring and piston head.
10. Remove the piston head by unscrewing it with a rag and pliers.
11. Put your new spring in and re-attach the piston head.
12. Reinstall everything. Shut the gearbox . This will require a bit of effort but you'll get there eventualy. Put it in your gun and enjoy!
Tips
EGet all the reinforcement parts you need for a certain power spring. It will save you money eventually because you won't have a bunch of parts break from too much stress.
EGet a replacement upgrade hop up first. It will increase the consistency of your shots. A tightbore barrel should be second to improve accuracy. Increasing FPS before either of these steps will actually hurt the gun's performance. After that, higher FPS can give you more range and of course power.
Warnings
EMake sure you take apart the gearbox in a place where you will not lose any parts. You might want to take pictures at the different stages so you can remember how it goes back together.
SPRINGS: (Approx. Settled Spring FPS on .20gBB)
Stock Gun (brand new gun) = 270-290 FPS
CQB Gun: M100 / SP100 / PDI120% = 330-350 FPS << FAP CQB Standard
Standard Field Gun: M120 / SP120 / PDI170% = 390-410 FPS [.20gBB stable] << COMMON UPGRADE
Std High Field Gun 1: M130 / SP130 / PDI190% / PDI210% = 440-460 FPS [.20gBBmin .23gBB stable]
Std High Field Gun 2: M140 / SP140 / PDI240% = 470-490 FPS [.23gBBmin .25gBB stable]
Sniper Field Gun 1: M150 / SP150 / PDI270% = 510-530FPS [.28gBB stable] << FAP Sniper Standard
Sniper Field Gun 2: M160 / SP160 = 550-580FPS [.30g/.36gBB sweet-stable] << rat buster
Sniper Field Gun 3: M170 / SP170 = 580-600+ FPS [.36g/.43gBB sweet-stable] << cat buster
Spring Power Chart filairsoft.com/airsoft103.htm
BB goes wild = BB too light -- BB range seems near = BB too heavy
GEARS: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF)
Infinite=(1) Ultra=(2) SuperTorqueUp=(3) TorqueUp=(4) StockRatio=(5) FastGear=(6)
>> Numbers indicate "car-gear-shift". *Small batts (non Sub-C) DOWNSHIFT to next LOWER gear. <<
Common Gear-to-Spring Setup for Big Batt (engine) (Sub-C):
Fast Gears (6) - UP TO M100 / SP100 / PDI120%
Stock Gears (5) can 'safely' handle up to M130, SP130, PDI190% <<<< on 9.6v 1700mAh(min)
Torque Up Gears (4) - M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-210% or LOWER
Torque Up Gears OR Super Torque Up (4/3) - M140 / SP140 / PDI240%
Ultra Torque Up Gears (2) - M150 / SP150 / PDI270%
Ultra or Infinite Gears (2/1) - M160 / SP160 << Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
Infinite Torque Up Gears (1) - M170 / SP170 << Needs minor machining to fit on Ver.2 GearBox
*Some Gear set won't fit on some reinforced Gearbox-CHECK first before you get one.
*No known machining on stock ver.3 GearBox to fit any gear set.
*AVOID using Bearing Bushings on M120 above. only for soft springs
M130 / SP130 / PDI190%-PDI210% on STOCK Gears will last Approx. 5-10 months (depends on use)
Stock Gears - Low Cost, nice ROF. will not last long. (cast alloy)
Flat Gears - Noisier, Cheaper. More durable (steel)
Helical Gears - Silent. Expensive. shimming sensitive (steel) <<Avoid pairing w/ Bearing Bushings
BATTERY: (Does NOT affect Gun FPS, only ROF and Rounds of fire)
Voltage = Rate of Fire (ROF) mAh = BB-Rounds (Power/Stamina)
BIG INTERNAL Standard Battery Size [Ni-CAD]:
M4A1 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) V-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
M4A1 Patriot - 12v 1700mah (Fat-long AA) Circular config
G36C - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA)
M733 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) Chako-Type 12v 1700mAh(max)
AK 47/Spetz - 10.4 2400mAh (Sub-C) 12v(max)
M16A1/A2/VN/SR16 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) 13.2v(max)
CAR15 - 8.4v 600mAh (Small) 1500mAh (max) (Fat AA) 2-separates
P90 - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) J-Type
G3A3,G3SG1,MP5A4,MP5SD5 - 9.6v 2400mAh (Sub-C) Straight
MP5SD6 - 9.6v 1500mAh (Fat AA) V-type
MP5A5 - 9.6v 1100mAh (Slim) Chako-Type << (?)
Steyr AUG - 9.6v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA) Box-Type
PSG-1 10.8v 1500mAh (Fat AA) 13.2v(max)
M16 Dummy/Ready MAG - 9pcs 10.8v 1700mAh (Fat-long AA)
AN/PEQ 2 Dummy Laser Box - 9.6v 1700mAh (w/laser) 12v 1700mAh(max)
Approx. Battery-to-Rounds Capacity: [NiCd] (on M120 Stock Gears, EG1000)
9.6v 600mAh = <500 rounds (Small) Sanyo KR600AE 9.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1100mAh = 1,000 rounds (Slim) Sanyo KR1100AAU 19mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1500mAh = 1,400 rounds (Fat AA) Sanyo KR1500AUL 16mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 1700mAh = 1,800 rounds (Fat-long AA) Sanyo KR1700AU 17mOhm Int. Resistance
9.6v 1900mAh = 2,400 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo N-1900SCR 4mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2000mAh = 2,600 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo KR-CH 6.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 2400mAh = 3,100 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo CP-2400SCR 4.5mOhm Internal Resistance
9.6v 3000mAh = 3,800 rounds (Sub-C) Sanyo HR-SCU [Ni-MH] 5.3mOhm Internal Resistance
*can someone confirm this rounds guesstimation--
BEST BUY: 9.6v 1700mAh(small-type) 9.6v 2400mAh(large-type)
Approx. CHARGING Time on 1000mAh Output Charger:
600mAh = 36mins(min) 42mins(std) 48mins(max)
1100mAh = 1hr 6mins(min) 1hr 19mins(std) 1hr 30mins(max)
1500mAh = 1hr 20mins(min) 1hr 48mins(std) 2hrs 7mins(max)
1700mAh = 1hr 42mins(min) 2hrs(standard) 2hrs 24mins(max)
1900mAh = 1hr 53mins(min) 2hrs 18mins(std) 2hrs 43mins(max)
2000mAh = 2hours(minimum) 2hrs 24mins(std) 2hrs 48mins(max)
2400mAh = 2hrs 23mins(min) 2hrs 54mins(std) 3hrs24mins(max)
3000mAh = 3hours(min) 3hrs 37mins(std) 4hrs 13mins(max)
*Charger should be 1 to 3 volts higher voltage than total battery voltage
Go over to digibattery.com/ for more battery-charging-time calculations
DISCHARGING: Number of batteries in a Pack = Max discharge volts.
(ex. 9.6v = 8cells in a pack = 8.0v is the maximum discharged voltage)
PISTON: Depends on your spring and trigger abuse.
M140 Above = Aluminum Piston (for ratatat players)
. Choice1: ICS Aluminum Piston
. Choice2: Systema Aluminum Piston
*if compatible, get the half-tooth to lessen the weight
M140 Below = Polycarbonate Piston
. Choice1: Guarder Polycarb Piston (blue)
. Choice2: Tokyo Marui Stock Piston (white) <-- polycarbonate too
. Choice3: Systema Polycarb Piston (black) << brittle bad choice
AVOID the RED PISTON-Systema Polycarb (defective) there's a newer version
*have'nt tried the TGS(blue) nor the TOP yet, but it looks promising <-- pls review
*some use polycarbs on m140 above but with trigger care
CYLINDER: (cylinderVolume-to-barrel-ratio) 2 is to 1 (standard)
Marui Stock Cylinders:
1. Closed Cylinder = 27.1cc 450mm(min) 580mm(max) barrel length
2. XM Cylinder = "4/5 hole" = 364mm(min) 460mm(max) barrel length
3. M4 Cylinder = "3/4 hole" aka Type-2 17cc - 229mm(min) 430mm(max) barrel length
4. MP5K Cylinder = "mid hole" 9cc 110mm(min) 170mm(max) barrel length
Systema NB Standard and BoreUp Parts:
1. Type-0 Cylinder (closed) fits M16-A1,VN,A2,G3-A4,SG1,SIG550,AUG
2. Type-1 Cylinder (tip hole) for XM177, M4, AK47, AK47S, SIG551
3. Type-2 Cylinder (XM hole) for MP5-A4,A5,SD5,SD6, MC51,SIG552
4. Type-3 Cylinder (M4 "3/4" hole) for MP5 PDW
5. Type-4 Cylinder (MP5K mid hole) for MP5K
*BoreUp Closed 29.4cc = 500mm(min) 600mm(max) barrel length
KM Cylinder Parts:
*Intercept Cylinder 59 barrel length from 450mm to 590mm (Type 0)
*Intercept Cylinder 45 barrel length from 250mm to 450mm (Type 2)
*Intercept Cylinder 25 barrel length from 100mm to 250mm (Mid-hole)
*To avoid confusion, don't mix brand model names, just model equivalence
*TM M733 by stock is closed cylinder (Type 0) -over ratio
RATIO Guide: Standard-Efficient Ratio is 1.5 is to 1
2-2.5 : 1 for springs up to M130 --- 2.5-3.0 : 1 for strong springs M140 -> UP
<needs further research>
BARREL: (inner barrel length)
650mm/25.59in PSG-1 (extended)
595mm/23.42in APS2 OR
589mm/23.18in PSG-1
550mm/21.65in M16A1/VN/A2,AUG (extended)
534mm/21.02in Sig550
509mm/20.03in M16A1/VN/A2,AUG
472mm/18.58in Famas SV/F1
469mm/18.46in G3-A3/A4,SG1
455mm/17.91in AK47,AK47s
444mm/17.48in M60
407mm/16.02in M4A1 M653E2 (extended)
395mm/15.55in APS2 SV
369mm/14.52in HK51
363mm/14.29in M4A1,RIS,SR-16,XM177ED,Sig551
300mm/11.81in M1A1,AKBetaSpetz, M733
285mm/11.22in MC51
247mm/9.72in Car15,P90,G36C, SIG552
245mm/9.64in UZI - 400mm/15.74in (extended)
229mm/9.01in MP5A5/A4/SD5/SD6
170mm/6.69in MP5K-PDW (extended)
141mm/5.55in MP5K-PDW
110mm/4.33in MP5K
MOTORS:
TM EG560 (famas)
TM EG700 (need more spec info)
TM EG1000 27,552rpm 1,407.00G.cm Torque
Systema "Genuine" 29,825rpm 1,6999.83G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Speed" 37,400rpm 1,915.99G.cm Torque
Systema "Hi-Torque" 32,302rpm 1,932.49G.cm Torque
Systema "Super Hi-Torque" 34,787rpm 1,998.47G.cm Torque
Eagle Force Hummer 1100 (high-speed)
Eagle Force Hummer 1300 (super-high-speed)
GAS: (for gas guns/pistols)
Freon12/Flon12 (94psi) = HFC134a (97psi) a.k.a. Green Gas
Freon22/Flon22 (140psi) a.k.a. TOP Gas, Taiwanese Green Gas,Omega Gas,ToyJack Gas
RED Gas = a bit higher pressure (?) than TOP Gas
BLACK Gas = highest pressure for airsoft <carbon<myth?
*pressures on 30C / 86F manila temp. / gas expansion speed differs from each type of gas[/size]